Rediscovering Saudi Arabia: A Journey Through Time 2025

The Saudi Arabia described by New York Times travel editor and photojournalist Stephen Hiltner in his excellent article Surprising, Unsettling, Surreal: Roaming Through Saudi Arabia is almost unrecognizable compared to my childhood memories from the 1960s and 1970s and my return visits in 2009 and 2012.

Hiltner writes about his month-long road trip from Jeddah to the Nabatean ruins of Hegra, then to Samara (the Stonehenge of Saudi Arabia), Riyadh, and the Asir Province.

He highlights the joie de vivre and generosity of the Saudis he encounters, evoking memories of my own experiences. His photos beautifully capture Saudi Arabia’s stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage. Admirably, he sticks to his journalist credentials and doesn’t shy away from addressing the country’s more controversial aspects, such as religious extremism and human rights abuses.

My jaw dropped when I saw his photos of the new luxury resorts in Saudi Arabia. I was fortunate to have stayed at what is now the Mandarin Oriental Al Faisaliah in Riyadh in 2012, but the new hotels are impressive.