Croatia’s Hvar Island: A James Bond Vibe 2025

The climb to the Venetian City Fortress/Fortica is steep. Taxis can take you there if you are not up for the challenge, but we were happy for the exercise even with my bum leg from the horse riding misadventure in Plitvice Lakes. On the way up, we passed tchotchke shops selling lavender sachets, crafts, miniature paintings of Hvar, food, and beach clothing. Cats looked on lazily from the doorways in the narrow passageways. It is a mystery how they thrive alongside stray dogs.

At the top edge of the town, we crossed a paved road to enter a gate that opened to Dr. Josip Avelini Park and a path leading up to the fort. A gravel path snakes uphill through a tranquil Mediterranean herb garden (sage, mint, lavender, rosemary) shaded by pine, cypress, olive, and palm trees. We passed a few vending carts and the abandoned Church of Our Lady of Kruvenica. The church is a photo-worthy stopping point.

Further on, the views of the red rooftops of Hvar town, Hvar harbor, and the small, lush Paklinski island chain are magnificent.